Founded in 1794 as a Port shipper by a then Lord Mayor of London and taken into the Symington fold in 1970, this small house has a history of making very distinguished wines. Their vintages are based on the Quinta do Madalena in the bleak and barren Rio Torto district of the Upper Douro, where life is harsh for both vines and people. Often unfairly overlooked as an `unglamorous` house, its wines regularly out perform its image and should always be on the shopping list. (CW 28/05/13)