Roger Sabon

Didier Negron, who is married to a Sabon daughter, is now the hands-on force here, with a lot of input from the affable Jean-Jacques - the latter a man with a striking resemblance to Sven Goran, save for his team`s over performance and a lack of Stelvin. Screw or no screw however, this is a forward looking estate with a wholehearted embrace of modern technology where appropriate. These wines are lovely, with depth, complexity and finesse. They show many flavours and age extremely well. A youthful bottle of 1998 Secret - generously provided by Jean-Jacques for a dinner with him at Andre Romero`s - was the finest Chateauneuf I`d ever tasted. it showed brilliant vivid fruit and formidable complexity. On our return a 2003 Reserve was already eminently drinkable. (CW 28/02/07)