At Roccapesta, Alberto Tanzini likes to say Morellino is a `gentle but exquisite` expression of Sangiovese. Alberto had a high-flying career in finance, but dreamed of returning to his childhood home to make wine. In 2003 he took the plunge, and Roccapesta was born. It has been a massive project. He carefully surveyed the complex geologies across the estate, and laid out new vineyards according to the results; there are now 30 different Sangiovese clones planted there. It`s not just Sangiovese; the Roccapesta Morellino blends (mostly) Sangiovese with a dollop of Ciliegiolo, an old indigenous grape. They also cultivate the ancient and rare Pugnitello. (NT 07/10/21)