On the south-facing slopes of Montalcino’s warm southern sector, it can get very hot. But on the high slopes where Poggio di Sotto’s vineyards are planted (vertiginous views if you ever visit) it can also get very cold at night, with the hulking presence of Monte Amiata and the nearby River Orcia drawing sea breezes down the valley. Such contrast between day and night temperatures is increasingly viewed as an essential ingredient in truly great wines.

When Piero Palmucci founded Poggio di Sotto in 1989, he insisted on a gentle extraction style, very much against the temper of the times (in those days). He also ruled that the wine should be moved as little as possible, to preserve the delicate, complex aromas that disappear with excessive racking.But skipping on racking makes the wine vulnerable to reduction. So, after many, many experiments in barrel shape, he developed a distinctive oval barrel which allowed the wine to mature slowly without the need for racking, whilst also minimizing the risk of reduction. The barrels are made for the winery from Slavonian oak by a Venetian cooper. They are part of what allows the wine to be so expressive. Palmucci’s obsession with quality has inspired a new generation of owners. To the bespoke elevage, they have added a clonal nursery and ever more focussed vineyard work. (NT 03/02/24)