Macan is the fruit of a collaboration between Benjamin de Rothschild and the Alvarez family behind Vega Sicilia. Benjamin de Rothschild likes to say such a joint venture is entirely appropriate for Rioja, since quality viticulture was only really brought to Rioja in the nineteenth century, after the marquises of Murrieta and Riscal were separately inspired on visits to Bordeaux. Macan began with the acquisition of some top quality vineyard, with some 100 hectares spread across parcels outside the town of Samaniego, at the foot of the Sierra of Cantabria. There are two labels, Macan and Macan Clasico. Macan is the grander of the two, relying on fruit from the best parcels. It is raised entirely in French oak. The Macan Clasico is the more immediately approachable label, which is made from a significant proportion of younger vines, and is raised in a mix of American and second-fill French oak barrels. Both are very serious expessions of what can be achieved in Rioja. (NT 18/06/25)