The Cotes de Castillon lies on the eastward extension of the plateau underpinning St-Emilion. The soils in the area are mixed, but the high concentration of clay and limestone around what was then called Chateau Goubau caught the eye of none other than Jacques Thienpont, owner of Le Pin and L’If. ‘These soils keeps the roots of the vines cool, so the wines are fresh,’ says Jacques. When Chateau Goubau came up for sale, Jacques and his sister Anne de Raeymaeker pounced, and purchased it. Their first vintage was 2016. He named it L`Hetre, continuing his `family tree` motif. Le Pin, `the pine`, L`If, `the yew`, L`Hetre, `the beech`. It feels natural for a region ringed by forests.

At 100 metres of altitude, L`Hetre is at one of Bordeaux`s highest spots, and Jacques is quick to stress the constant attention that working organically in Bordeaux`s damp climate requires. On a day-to-day basis, L`Hetre is managed by Jacques` nephew Maxime. When Maxime balked at the price of some top-end farm equipment, Jacques counselled him. `spare no expense in the vineyard and the wine will pay you back, many times`. Maxime listened.

As well as L`Hetre, there is a punningly named second wine. Raison d`Hetre. Both are largely made from Merlot, with a freshening streak of Cabernet Franc. They come from a clear plot selection, with the vines for L`Hetre up on the plateau, and the vines for Raison d`Hetre on the slopes leading off. (NT 11/08/23)