In 1972, Perth businessman Denis Horgan received an unusual piece of news. An American man had been digging holes in the ground on his cattle farm, without asking permission; now he wanted to buy the farm. Denis had no intention of selling, and no idea who this American was (a ‘Mr Robert Mondavi’, anybody?) But when someone showed him a copy of Time magazine with Mondavi’s face on the cover, he agreed to meet him. Mondavi was convinced that the farm would be an amazing spot for premium winemaking. Denis still wasn’t selling, but decided that he had better start making wine himself. And so was born Leeuwin Estate.

It was seven years before they got their first vintage to market, but time has proven Mondavi right – Leeuwin are achieving their stated goal of ‘producing wines that rank among the best in the world’. Mondavi mentored the Horgans through their early years. One of the best pieces of advice he ever gave them was, ‘find yourself a young winemaker who hasn’t developed a style elsewhere, and tell them to make the best wine they can from your land’. It has worked for Leeuwin, who have had only a small number of winemakers over the years, formed in-house. When they began, Margaret River wasn’t even a recognised wine zone. Yet it’s ideal. with the ocean on three sides, sea breezes sweep in and temper the hot weather. They bring the sort of balance great wines need. It’s unusual to find a portfolio with such a diverse range of grape varieties, all done so well. (NT 17/05/22)