In the modern world only gynaecologists and Christian Seely can get away with bow ties. Seely is the professorial managing director of AXA`s wine division and nearly lost Petit Village when, as the Bordeaux rumour mill has it Gerard Perse tried to buy it. Fortunately the deal fell through and there is still a little outpost of the Medoc in Pomerol. Like Medoc, Petit Village`s soils are stony and gravel dominated and the Cabernets together make up 25% of the blend. But then, with neighbours like Cheval Blanc, Figeac and Vieux Chateau Certan, that is not a surprise. So, of all Pomerols, this is one to age. The Cabernet Sauvignon element in particular, at 17% gives the wine structure and stops it becoming too creamy and lush. It is this structure that often fools the critics, but it is the reason that, like Christian`s bow tie, Petit Village just exudes class. (CW 09/06/10)