At this property we are at such Olympian heights of quality that breathing in this rareified atmosphere may be restricted – and not just because you’re gasping after having heard the price. So what sets it apart and makes the Hollywood glitterati, various Oligarchs and software developers so obsessed with the stuff? First, the biggest Ausone obsessives are the Vaulthier family who own it. They don’t look to produce a blockbuster and instead their wines accentuate the elegance, floral character and transparency possible, but rarely achieved in St-Emilion.

The secret lies in the soil and the consequent choice of vines in the seven hectares. Merlot here is less than half the planting and the Cabernets planted on sand make the wine both more perfumed and complex than some. The result is sheer class. If you want to touch the hem of greatness but can’t afford Ausone, then the Vaulthiers also own Chateau Fonbel, an affordable alternative with more than a hint of its exalted ownership. (CW 23/10/14)