And introducing the five-star 2019 Barolo vintage
A family winery is a warm place to work, says Emanuela Bolla; then she admits with a laugh that it can sometimes be a challenge to keep all her relatives on board with every decision. Serio e Battista Borgogno has been on the scene since the nineteenth century, occupying a commanding position on the ridge above the Cannubi vineyard. Emanuela and her cousin Federica are quick to point out that being traditionalist does not mean a one-vintage-fits-all approach; 'every year we like to question everything like it's the first time'. Among their many recent innovations, they are keen to show off the almond tree saplings they are planting in their vineyards; these encourage biodiversity, and in an era of rising temperatures, offer grapes a little shade.
2019 brought Barolo a vintage that many producers are comparing with the great 2013. After the late-season rains of 2018, 2019 started with good water reserves in the ground. Scorching temperatures in summer were repeatedly relieved by opportune rain. With cool autumn evenings, harvest came late (by modern standards) in mid-October. A late harvest and a long growing season is just what Nebbiolo wants; it means complexity and ageworthiness. Galloni has described the vintage as 'stellar'; Decanter has scored it five out of five.
The Borgogno 2019s are a lovely expression of their year. The classic Barolo comes mainly from Novello fruit, with its characteristic freshness; it is vibrant and pretty, with a rose petal and mandarin skin character. Cannubi is charged with the depth and intensity this great site can bring. Albarella cru is downslope from Cannubi. Borgogno used 20% whole bunch on their 2019 Albarella, and raised it in a mix of steel and tonneaux; the result is some intense aromatics and an attractive textural gloss. The very small volumes mean the Albarella has been packed in cases of 4; each bottle in a case has a label representing a different season, so you can 'drink the seasons'. /NT
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available Winter 2023
