Family trees and vineyard pedigree in the Cote d'Or
Surnames tend to recur across wineries in Burgundy - it's hardly surprising, as French inheritance laws do have a habit of fracturing family-owned domaines. In the village of Chassagne-Montrachet there is more than one domaine bearing the name Pillot, but they share a common ancestor. Jean-Marc Pillot is not a domaine which ordinarily crosses our radar, but when we were offered a keenly-priced parcel of premier cru whites from this domaine, and both from the 2017 vintage when whites excelled, we took a closer look.
So who is Jean-Marc Pillot? He marks the fourth generation of his branch of the Pillots to farm in Chassagne-Montrachet. He learned his craft at his father's side in the winery and the vineyards, while at the same time training as an oenologist. In the thirty years since he took over full control here, he has transformed the domaine, rebuilding the facilities, expanding the vineyards, and changing the vinification and elevage regimes. Years of work and investment here are reaping rewards; under Jean-Marc's guiding hand, the wines have been improving by leaps and bounds. They now strike a fine balance between richness and a more mineral, steely style; power meets elegance.
And so it should be, given the domaine's fine holdings. Macherelles and Maltroie are two premier cru sites that border the village, Macherelles to the north, Maltroie to the south. Macherelles is less well known than Maltroie, but Pillot has some important holdings here; it's a cool site, tending to make a bright, high-energy style of wine, said to be characterised by some particularly subtle nuances. Maltroie has a warmer exposure and will typically give a slightly riper style. In Jean-Marc Pillot's hands, both these bottlings offer brilliant expositions of their home terroir. /NT
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