La Rioja Alta crosses the river
Spain's premier wine region Rioja is divided into three sub-regions. Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa are the more prestigious; both enjoy a more Atlantic-influenced climate, and higher elevation vineyards. They are divided by the River Ebro, and soil types. Rioja Baja (recently rebranded into Rioja Oriental) is further east, with lower-lying vineyards and a drier, more Mediterranean climate.
La Rioja Alta is also the name of one of Spain's most-loved wineries, known worldwide for its Ardanza and 904 bottlings. It's a very old-school winery, family-owned since it was founded in 1890, making wine from high-quality fruit given long aging in American oak. It has built generations of success on its vineyards in the Alta sub-region.
But recognising the great terroir to be found on the opposite back of the Ebro, the bodega has more recently established a foothold in Rioja Alavesa. Finca Martelo is a single site wine from its Alavesa estate Torre de Oña; winemaker Julio Saénz calls Martelo 'our little Burgundy', an allusion to the 80-year-old vines on clay and limestone soil. These give a slightly fuller style of wine than across the river, but the higher altitude and slightly damper climate bring a countervailing extra freshness. It is made from a field blend of the classic regional grapes with (mainly) Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Garnacha, and (white) Viura; it spends time in a mix of French and American oak, which suits the fuller fruit. 2015 was a fabulous vintage for Rioja as a whole. 2015 Martelo marries Alavesa fruit with the stamp of a great vintage and the lifted, spicy, savoury character which is the hallmark of the La Rioja Alta wines. /NT
'Glistening violet. Potent, mineral- and smoke-accented dark berry, cherry cola and floral scents show excellent clarity and spicy lift. Lively and seamless in texture, offering sweet black raspberry, cherry preserve and boysenberry flavors and hints of spicecake and candied rose. Closes on an appealingly sweet note, with sneaky, slow-mounting tannins and strong, smoky persistence.' - 93 points, Josh Raynolds, vinous.com, February 2021
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available imminently