'Condrieu… is undeniably one of the most striking, unmistakeable terroir wines on the planet … it can on occasion produce some of the finest white wines in the world.'
Matt Walls, Wines of the Rhone
Condrieu is one of France's great white wine styles – and when compared to white Burgundy, it can look positively cheap. On the terraced slopes of Condrieu, just north of Cote-Rotie, Viognier finds the salinity, tension and freshness to balance its natural aromatic opulence. In so doing, it can make utterly exquisite wine. Yet it was very nearly lost to the world. By 1965, there were only 8 hectares of Condrieu still under vine. The tide turned just in time, as new generations of producers gradually realised the secret. Now there are a more healthy 220 or so hectares of Viognier vines here.
Yves Cuilleron makes a varied set of wines, but he is best known for his Condrieus. He has built up a small family domaine into one of the premier domaines in the area, with some top vineyard holdings. He takes part in everything the winery does, from planting vines to bottling. 'I focus on everything. That's the price you pay for quality.'
Chaillets is Yves' old vine selection, from vines on the slopes above Chavanay. These vines are all cultivated on biotite granite, which tends to give a straighter expression of Condrieu; 2022 Chaillets comes across as white rose and peach, with a salty edge. Verlieu is a lieu-dit wine, also at Chavanay, but on muscovite granite, which tends to give a more ample wine, and 2022 Verlieu has gloriously ripe, floral notes of pear and apricot. And on biotite granite in the original heart of the appellation, Vernon is one of Condrieu's finest sites. Yves gives it more new oak than his other Condrieus; in the manner of grand cru white Burgundy, it bears oak quite naturally. The impressive aromatics run from lemon to apricot, by the way of ginger and cedar. It is charged and profound. /NT
