Bollinger PN AYC21: showcase Blanc de Noirs

Exploring the Pinot Noir crus of Champagne

The Champagne house of Bollinger likes to say that Pinot Noir is the pillar of their style, and every cuvée they make is at least 60% Pinot Noir. Over recent years, Bollinger has made a fascinating success of their showcase series of Blanc des Noirs releases, focused on the Pinot Noir crus of Champagne. This year, they've put the spotlight on their estate vineyards in Aÿ. The south-facing, low-lying slopes of this grand cru village are considered to be the source of Champagne's most powerful, structured Pinot Noir.

As ever, they've named the release in code. This year's is PN AYC21: PN is Pinot Noir, AY is the village of Aÿ, and 21 is for the base vintage of 2021. Half the cuvée comes from the brisk, vibrant 2021 vintage, and half comes from reserve wines a part of which (as ever at Bollinger) has been aged in magnums. And half the base wines were fermented in oak barrels. The combination makes for an elegant and harmonious whole, displaying Bollinger's signature richness.

PN AYC21 was a big success when we put it on tasting recently, in the company of some recent vintage releases from other houses (2019 Pol Roger, 2016 Billecart-Salmon). It has the charm and immediate appeal of a Pinot Noir-led Champagne, with opening notes of redcurrant and apricot followed by a candlewax-y mid palate, and finishes on the suggestion of salted caramel. It is an elegant and refined addition to Bollinger's project to map Champagne by Pinot Noir crus. /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold. Wines available imminently.To place an order, click on the wines below or call 020 7638 5998