And coming soon, 2021 Bordeaux
Most of Bordeaux is pretty flat. Atlantic winds rip across the Medoc, which undulates gently before a shallow slope down to the Gironde, but vineyards are rarely more than a few meters above sea level. So it comes as a shock to find yourself driving up the very steep approach to Chateau Biac. Standing in the vineyards, overlooking the Graves plain and a meander in the River Garonne, you feel like you are at the highest spot for miles around. The soils are a diverse patchwork with a complexity more akin to what one expects in Burgundy. No wonder Biac had such a historically high reputation.
But it was in a neglected state in 2006, when the Asseily family were captivated by its charm. They call themselves 'accidental' winemakers. You might say their decision to throw over their lives and go to Bordeaux to make wine was impulsive. But the amount of work they have put in, and the sheer gusto with which they have thrown themselves up a forbiddingly steep learning curve, are a wonder to behold. And all this work and all the learning are bearing fruit in the soaring quality of their wines.
The older hands at Uncorked knew the Asseilys in their previous London life; it has been a joy to see them succeed at Biac. When we go to Bordeaux at the end of this month to taste the 2021 vintage, we'll be staying with them. (The guesthouses are in Le Vieux Biac, the original 17th century chateau, and they'd love to have you sometime!) For the first decade, their reds were guided by Patrick Leon, former technical director of the Mouton Rothschild wine estates; these days, Patrick's son Bertrand consults. They also make a delightful Cadillac sweet wine, Secret. /NT
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available immediately