2025 Clos La Gaffelière: an effortlessly classy St-Emilion

Only £87/6 bottles in bond

Where the Bordeaux Médoc majors on Cabernet Sauvignon, over the river it's all about the Merlot. The medieval town of St-Emilion is planted firmly on a limestone plateau with poor, thin topsoils, while the slopes that dive off the plateau have a little more clay embedded in them, which can lead to richer wines. Merlot loves it here, and produces fragrant wines of intense beauty, often with a breath of freshness supplied by Cabernet Franc.

St-Emilion property La Gaffelière is nestled into what Director Thomas Soubes calls a 'golden triangle' of vines between the hills topped by Ausone and Pavie. It's one of the oldest properties in the area, with a château that looks more like a gothic chapel, and Roman mosaics in the basement. But viticulture here is nothing if not modern, in the best way. The vines are half-concealed in a riot of flowers and grasses, which prevent soil erosion and bring biodiversity. The cellar facilities are bang up-to-date.

Clos La Gaffelière used to be the second wine of La Gaffelière, but no longer. Now it’s a standalone property with vineyards all its own, below Pavie and alongside the lower slope at Larcis Ducasse, where there's sticky clay and black sand mixed with the limestone. This is proper St-Emilion terroir, very well-looked after. The clay brings a little richness, the sand brings fine aromatics, and the element of Cabernet Franc in the vineyard brings a touch of minty freshness. 2025 Clos La Gaffelière has a marked plum-and-wild-strawberry character, with smooth, elegant tannins. 'We have worked on fine tannins to make this drinkable at any age,' says Thomas, 'though of course you can keep it.' /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold. Wines expected to arrive spring 2028.To place an order, click on the wines below or call 020 7638 5998