2025 Bordeaux: two great-value St-Emilions

Laroque, Grand Mayne — and the Wine Advocate scores

Today sees the release of two fabulous, great value St-Émilions. To the east of the town, on the limestone plateau, Laroque is one of St-Émilion's very oldest properties. The vineyards are spread across pure Astéries limestone (as at Canon) and on red clay laid over limestone (as at Troplong-Mondot). The property was dormant for a large part of the twentieth century, before being brought back to life, and only recently being re-introduced to the en primeur market. The investments of the last decade have done great things here, and David Suire has fashioned a beautiful 2025. 

On the western flank of St-Émilion, the vineyards of Grand Mayne span higher clay-limestone soils (adjacent to Beau-Séjour Bécot) as well as pied de côte sandy-clay soils around the château. Owner Jean-Antoine Nony has established a long-term replanting programme to increase the levels of Cabernet Franc to what they were in his grandfather’s day, both for reasons of soil suitability and as a hedge against global warming. In 2025, the Cabernet Franc naturally excelled and forms an unusually high 38% of the final blend. Consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt has been on board since 2024, finessing the style of the wine. There is greater infusion, gentler extraction, exclusively manual pump-overs, shorter macerations and better-integrated oak. The aim is freshness, purity, polished tannins, all of which characterise the 2025.

'This is indeed a vintage of exceptional quality'

Last Friday also saw the release of William Kelley’s scores on the Wine Advocate. 'The best 2025s are thrilling,' writes editor-in-chief William Kelley, and 'this is indeed a vintage of exceptional quality'. Among the wines that have already released he gives Pontet-Canet a perfect 98-100 score. He highlights the many above-and-beyond changes that have brought the wine here to 'new heights of quality and consistency'.  /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold. Wines available Spring 2028.To place an order, click on the wines below or call 020 7638 5998