Chevalier, Latour-Martillac, Gazin, La Pointe
Neal Martin's verdict is in on 2020 Bordeaux, and it's pretty clear. 'The headline is that 2020 is an excellent vintage.' 'Fresh wines with ample tension', 'excellent acidity levels', 'greater expression of individual terroirs'. Part of a great set of three? 'The truth is that generally the 2020 does form the third in a trilogy of great vintages after 2018 and 2019.' For the cellar? 'Though Bordeaux is far more approachable than even a decade ago, I believe the best 2020s will merit long-term cellaring.'
The past week has seen a number of releases that Neal scores highly, including two of our favourite Pessacs. First up was Neal's 'hidden gem' Latour-Martillac Blanc, 'a cut above', clocking in at impressive 93-95 points. The Latour-Martillac Rouge is also a treat and scores equally well. And today we have seen Domaine de Chevalier. Always good-humoured, droll and opinionated, Oliver Bernard has no doubt that it was the cool August that made his wine - 'and every good wine in Bordeaux in 2020'. A cooler turn to the weather brought the essential freshness to lift ripe fruit. Supple and elegant, 2020 Chevalier Rouge is beautifully balanced.
Also this week, we have had two great Pomerols. Gazin neighbours both Petrus and L'Evangile, and was a standout in our April tastings. And La Pointe has been on a sharp upwards curve after years of investment, while so far remaining still relatively off-radar. Other notable releases have included Lagrange, Armailhac, Sociando-Mallet and Grand Mayne on Tuesday, then Beychevelle and Stephan von Neipperg's quartet of d`Aiguilhe, Clos de l`Oratoire, Canon-la-Gaffeliere and the epic La Mondotte all yesterday. /NT
