2019 Vieux Telegraphe and Les Pallieres

19 Nov 2020

Frederic Brunier

Glorious wine from a great vintage

If I'm only allowed one word to describe the 2019 southern Rhônes I have tasted so far then it should probably be juicy. Yes it was hot and dry and the grapes were thick-skinned and contained little juice but that concentration has retained the acids as well. And so far the wines don't appear to be marked by excessive tannins or alcohol. In Gigondas that bit of altitude helps even more of course and the Racines and Terrasse du Diable from Les Pallières are superb. Those sand, clay and limestone terraces up at nearly 400 metres and the ancient vines give great quality when the heat is on. The Brunier brothers and now their various offspring continue to press for ever higher standards in what they do. They constantly invest in both their vineyards and their cellars.

The character of the fruit is also extremely pure and fresh in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, not many prunes in this vintage, and the diminishing proportion of Grenache in the blend in response to climate change is paying off. At Vieux Télégraphe they haven't planted a Grenache vine in years. The white Chateauneuf here is subtle and elegant. Finesse as well as breadth come from that fruit concentration and good structure. It will give great pleasure in the short to medium term.

The Vieux Télégraphe Rouge itself is nothing short of a triumph. It is one of those great wines that is amazing whenever you taste it. It is a massive step up from its stablemates and has elegant, effortless power and drive and energy. There's no heat but a faint lick of salt; but now it is graphite and raspberry and blackberry, dry but ripe and pure, juicy freshness. There's a lot of tannin but it is finely woven and not obtrusive. It is tight and coiled with loads more to come and the finish is joyful with juicy fruit and gorgeous texture. It has the best elements of 2009 and the finest of 2010 and 16. It is the best Vieux Télégraphe I have tasted. /CW

Offered subject to confirmation; for shipment Winter 2021

Vintage Description Cs Sz Bt Sz Cs Bts Cs ib Cs inc Bt inc
2019 young Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape
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6x 75cl 2 0 £235.00 - - Buy