2019 Burgundy: the Cote Chalonnaise

16 Feb 2021

Jacqueson, Charton, Lorenzon, Lumpp 

Our Burgundy en primeur campaign ends, as ever, in the Cote Chalonnaise. This a very different place from the Cote d'Or, where most vineyards lie along one great slope; in the Chalonnaise you are as likely to come across a field of livestock or cabbages as a vineyard. You have more of a sense of la France profonde. But the best vineyards here enjoy many of the same conditions that make the vineyards of the Cote d'Or great, and there are some fabulous wines to be had at accessible prices. From north to south…

Jacqueson remains one of the very best domaines here, and has a huge domestic following; their wines adorn the list of many of France's finest restaurants. Based in the village of Rully, the domaine is these days managed by third-generation sister and brother team Marie and Pierre. Of 2019, Pierre says, 'all the circumstances combined for a very small crop of great concentration - both sugars and acidity. The whites are rich, generous and full, with fine acidity. The reds are very fine, with aromas and flavours which recall 2018, but with more acidity.' In Mercurey, Vincent Charton finds himself at the head of a renaissance, rescuing the village from the reputation it once held for 'rustic' wines. His Mercurey VV is a blend from two favoured, old-vine village sites, and has a bright red fruit character. Chapitre has a smoothly elegant dark fruit profile; Chassiere is floral and intensely perfumed. East-facing Clos du Roy enjoys the full benefit of the morning sun, and is richly-textured and full-bodied.

Francois Lumpp has vineyards on the mid-to-upper-slope 'sweet spots' on the rolling hills around Givry, and has a long-established reputation as the village's premier vigneron. These days, his children Anne-Cecile and Pierre are now firmly established at his side, getting ready to take the domaine into the next generation. The 2019s here are vivid and full of life. Bruno Lorenzon farms 9 hectares between Mercurey and Montagny, but when you taste his wines it's easy to forget where you are - they have the breed and class of somewhere much more glamorous than their postcode! Montagny is most known for its white wines, and Bruno's are outstanding: Mont Laurent is meticulously crafted, full of focus, drive and elegance, Choix du Roy combines generous yellow fruit with intensity, good structure and a chiselled, saline finish. A very welcome addition to our portfolio. /NT

Offered subject to confirmation; for shipment Winter 2021