An emblematic vineyard, an historic model
Dirk Niepoort is nothing if not a contrarian. He released a 2015 port when other port houses demurred. In 2016, with every other port releasing a vintage, there is no standard vintage Niepoort - but there is a Niepoort Bioma Vinha Velha. When I spoke to Dirk last month, he argued that although 2016 is unquestionably a great vintage, he wasn't convinced that it entirely suited the Niepoort house style. Nevertheless, he feels it very much does suit Bioma, his single vineyard release from his ancient and emblematic Pisca vineyard, and he has enthusiastically released a 2016 Bioma.
The Pisca vineyard has always played an important part in making Niepoort vintage port, and used to be blended entirely in. Most of the vines in Pisca (a field blend of the classic port varieties, and a few wild cards) exceed 80 years in age. Seduced by the quality of fruit Pisca was giving him, in 2007 Dirk began bottling it separately, and has never looked back. 'Bioma goes its own way,' he told me. 'Even in years when we release both Bioma and Niepoort, they are very different.'
It's not just the vineyard that makes Bioma different. Inspired by the great ports of yesteryear (especially Niepoort's legendary 1970 vintage, aged entirely in pipe), Dirk chooses to age the Bioma not in wooden vats (the modern practice) but in traditional port pipes. This aging demands a different time frame, hence the later release date, and it contributes to Bioma's very different, very long-lived style. Tasting a cask sample of the 2016 Bioma last month, I was struck by the hedonistically expansive floral perfume. Behind that perfume, there was a formidable structure clearly able to sustain the port for many, many years ahead. /NT
Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment spring 2019
