2016 Mascarello Monprivato: in the presence of greatness

19 Aug 2020

The once-in-a-generation Monprivato

Mauro Mascarello is a stoic man. There's not a lot that moves him; he doesn't smile much. He is the steward of the Monprivato cru, one of the most revered sites in all of Barolo. You can be tasting great historic vintages of Monprivato in the cellar with him - a '71, an '89 - and he frowns, he shrugs. But something has ruffled his composure. He seems genuinely excited about 2016 Monprivato. He can't find a worthy comparison in any other vintage he has made - and his first was 1967. We might have been sceptical at first, but when we tried 2016 Monprivato recently, we were astounded. It's not that often that you get the sense of tasting a truly great wine (a few stand out in my memory) but this was one of them. 2016 Monprivato is a wine of huge presence, but with a lifted, ethereal texture in the mouth. It will age for decades.

So why 2016? It was as close to perfection as growing seasons get, with all the prerequisites for a great vintage in place. The long season suited late-ripening Nebbiolo perfectly. Warm days contrasted with unusually cool nights. Dry, bright September made the perfect run-up to harvest.

We are also delighted to offer one of the other jewels in the Mascarello crown. Santo Stefano di Perno is from limestone rich soils in Monforte d'Alba; it offers a meaty, dark-fruited, fuller style of Barolo, packed with cherry and roses, baking spices and black tea. It might very well be the top bottling at almost any other Barolo cantina; at Giuseppe Mascarello, it must rub shoulders with the even greater Monprivato. /NT

Offered subject to confirmation; for shipment Winter 2020