A Brunello with history
The surroundings of the ruined castle of Argiano support more than one great Brunello estate. Staying at Sesti a few years ago, I must have done something right; I was given a room with a view further up the hill towards the late renaissance villa that is the seat of the Argiano estate. Straight rows of cypress trees march uphill towards the villa, and it is hard to imagine a more Tuscan view. But it is not only a spectacular setting. With vineyards on the hill for over five hundred years, there is a long and proud history of winemaking here.
The story of Argiano captures much of the sweep of Montalcino history. It was originally a Sienese family who built the magnificent villa; the extensive cellars were constructed for winemaking. In 1967 Argiano was a founder member of the Brunello Consorzio. In the 1990s, the estate was dragged into the modern era, as cellars were modernised and the vineyards reorganised. Less happily, a decade later it was caught up in the Brunellogate scandal. In 2013, Brazilian financier André Esteves bought Argiano, and the funding taps were opened. Conversion to organic viticulture was an early priority, along with detailed mapping of the limestone and clay soils. In the cellar, the use of oak has been dialled down to allow the natural fruit of Sangiovese to shine through. Under his innovations and investment, the estate and the wine have blossomed.
The south-western quadrant of Montalcino where Argiano lies is outside the throng and bustle of most Brunello estates. It is the hottest part of the region, but the elevation of the vineyards means it can also get very cold at night; such contrast between day and night temperatures is increasingly viewed as an essential ingredient in truly great wines. The quality of the vintage shines through in 2016 Argiano; with a classically varietal profile of cherry, sweet herb and tobacco carried along by silky tannins to a structured, complex finish. /NT
'The 2016 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino shows sweet herbs and tobacco with hints of mocha and cedar spice box. It’s silky in texture, coasting across a medium-bodied frame while giving way to tart red berries, with grippy tannins mounting toward the close. A cooling wave of minty herbs and licorice adds much needed freshness, bringing the 2016 into balance throughout the youthfully structured finale. While this was hard to read and quite backward upon opening, it blossomed beautifully in the glass over time.' - 94 points, Eric Guido, vinous.com, November 2020
View all 2016 Brunello listed so far
Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Autumn 2021
