Fladgate single quintas

2015 Douro: warm and dry; ideal conditions

2015 ports are a welcome release of wines from the best parcels of the top houses. The Fladgate Partnership's Vargellas, Guimaraens and Roeda are stunning wines from great soils and exposures and the workers harvest perfectly ripe fruit; disease-free and, despite the drought, small and intense but un-raisined grapes.  

The wines have the structure to age well through the traditional 21 year minimum required for this style of wine but are delicious enough to make very enjoyable drinking before that. Each of the wines is different but they share the voluptuous texture we associate with the producers. Taylor's single estate Vargellas has that floral component, while the Guimaraens selection is taken from top plots across their terraces and includes much of Quinta do Panascal. It has amazing depth and structure. Roeda, long since revitalised as an exemplar of what vintage port should be, has tropical and figgy fruit with more than a hint of garriguey herbs.

The granite and schist terraces of the upper Douro have for centuries produced unique wines that have twin identities. First, they can't have come from any other combination of terroir and grape varieties, regardless of who makes them. Secondly port is inextricably linked into aspects of British culture. We had a hand in inventing the stuff, in working out which were the best areas to plant and the port trade enclave in Oporto has survived strife and dictatorship pretty much intact over the years. With its brilliant ability to mature, port is still laid down as christening presents and nurtured to be served at special occasions and anniversaries. /CW

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available November 2017