'White Burgundy in Kiwi clothing'

A frost-kissed vintage of concentration

Kumeu River is proof, if ever it was needed, that New Zealand is not all about Sauvignon Blanc. Not just terrific examples of New Zealand Chardonnay, these wines beat top Burgundian producers in blind tastings on a regular basis, hence Neal Martin's claim that they are not only some of the best in New Zealand, but 'some of the best in the world'. Natural yeasts, long-lees aging and discreet oak results in a range of single vineyard Chardonnays of exceptional character and definition with pricing that should make a lot of Burgundian winemakers blush!

The story of Kumeu River is one of history and family pride. The first generation of the Brajkovich family to emigrate to New Zealand in 1937 brought winemaking experience from their native Croatia. By 1944, the new immigrants had saved enough money to buy their own vineyard. Over the years, they experimented with a lot of grape varieties, but always found that Chardonnay worked best in their clay-on-sandstone soils.

2015 brings to Kumeu a vintage of low yields (culled by a spring frost) but intense quality and concentration. It is also a vintage in which the difference between the vineyards is more marked than usual. Coddington shows a clean citrus character with a touch of spice and a long, marked finish. Hunting Hill is more aromatic. Most intense of all (and most in need of some bottle age) is the Mate's Vineyard, from the naturally small-berried, low-yielding Mendoza clone. As Neal Martin puts it, this estate makes 'white Burgundy in Kiwi clothing'. /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available immediately