Introducing Jean-Claude Lapalu, man of granite

Windswept volcanic slopes: terroir Beaujolais

Brouilly is the best volcanic cru in the granite hills north of Lyon. It isn't as romantic as Fleurie, nor does it have the prestige and power of Moulin-à-Vent. But it does have its vineyards on the slopes of a volcano - Mont Brouilly. I had arrived at Lapalu with no preconceptions and indeed not much knowledge. I did a course on the Beaujolais in Newcastle with a priest many years ago but came away unconverted. My scepticism began to dissipate more recently when we discovered a couple of top Moulin-à-Vent producers. But waiting outside what looked like a dilapidated barn on a freezing and windy November afternoon last year surrounded by a bleak moonscape of leafless, skeletal vines wasn't ideal preparation for an epiphany moment with one of the region's greats. Yet, this visit was one of the most revelatory I've made.

It is the Brouilly volcano that perhaps may go some way to explaining the mineral energy so apparent in Jean-Claude Lapalu's wines. And he is quite the producer now; having grown up in a family that sold fruit to the coop, he was 35 before making the break to bottling his own wine. It was a way to allow it to achieve its potential.

Cru Beaujolais covers a multitude of styles and quality levels, but these wines from Lapalu truly have an energy, complexity and balance that you rarely find. Jean-Claude knows his vineyard plots like the back of his hand and regardless of vintage is able to conjure breathtaking wine from them. We're proud to make this first offer of Lapalu wines. Hopefully only the first of many. /CW

Offered subject to remaining unsold for shipment 2017