Them damn hills of Chavignol

Sancerre is by and large a wine best enjoyed young, not aged. One startling exception to this rule are the wines of Francois Cotat. These are perhaps more an expression of their terroir, the terres blanches limestone marl vineyards around Chavignol, than their grape variety, and may in fact be unlike any Sauvignon Blanc you have come across before. Mineral and herbal when young, they gain richness, depth and intensity when properly matured.

Quality is sky high here; the Cotats spent years resisting salesmen trying to push vignerons to dependence on pesticides and herbicides. Every vine Cotat owns is within a kilometer of his cellar on a Chavignol side street, which itself is overlooked by the Mont Damnés vineyard (so named by pickers who struggle on the steep slopes). In pursuit of ripeness, picking often happens much later than at other Sancerre domaines.

Yields were low in Sancerre in 2015, but quality is brilliant as the region enjoyed the favourable conditions that prevailed across much of France. The result is a 2015 Loire vintage as good as its predecessor. Drink the Caillottes (relatively) young, then expect expressiveness from the Culs de Beaujeu, restraint from the Monts Damnés, and intensity from La Grand Côte. /NT

Offered subject to confirmation for shipment autumn 2016