2015 Climens, Léoville-Barton, Giscours, Branaire, Lagrange, Lascombes

After a controversial wine in 2012 and a controversial release of their 2013, Pontet-Canet got back on track with last year's 2014. Yesterday afternoon saw the release of the eagerly awaited 2015 and it was quickly snapped up. We're trying to secure more but in the meantime it is sold out. Late last night came a couple of wines from Bruno Borie at Ducru-Beaucaillou and then early this morning, Lascombes, Branaire-Ducru and Lagrange. Hot on their heels, our favourite sweet wine of the vintage, followed by our favourite St-Julien.

After selling her (excellent) 2012, 2013 and 2014 vintages below their costs of production, I know that Berenice Lurton - understandably - wanted a year in the black. Since she feels that her 2015 Climens is the qualitative equivalent of her sublime 2001 - which now sells at £1,700 a case - I feared a hefty increase. In the event, our favourite Barsac producer released this morning at just 48.50 euros a bottle so we're delighted to offer it at just £255 for six. To put that in context, that's a mere half euro more than the price at which that 2001 hit the market fourteen years ago. As usual, we tasted the wine in its different constituent parts - you have to use your imagination here to envisage the finished sum. Nevertheless, the purity, complexity, energy and sheer class were inescapable. We went from Climens to Yquem and I'm going to stick my neck out and say that Berenice's wine will be every bit as profound as the latter.

Perhaps our expectations were set too high, or perhaps it was a root day. Perhaps it was all the excitement in Margaux. Whatever it was, we were slightly underwhelmed by our tastings in St-Julien. Until we arrived at Leoville-Barton. We were greeted by Lilian, who was limping and had her arm in a sling following an argument with a horse. We were nearing the end of a long day and she seemed to be doing her best to put a smile on her face. We tasted Mauvesin and Langoa, neither of which will disappoint. But the Leoville really woke us from our torpor. There's black fruits, lovely energy and purity, plenty of fat on the bones, it's juicy and - of course (this being Leoville-Barton) - has perfect balance. In the words of Neal Martin, 'this is just an outstanding, classic, drop-dead gorgeous Leoville-Barton. Bravo Anthony, Lilian et al.'

Within the last hour, the very fine Giscours, where 2015 seems like it's the culmination of all the recent work done in the vineyards. 'This is the best vintage since the 1961 Giscours,' says Neal Martin. /AR

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available 2018