2012 Fratelli Alessandria: Barolo for the people

11 Oct 2016

Fratelli Alessandria, Verduno

Verduno, Barolo's Cinderella Commune 

Fratelli Alessandria: the shoe fits

Fratelli Alessandria makes some of the most enjoyable and delicious wines in Barolo, especially if you don't want to wait too long to drink them! The firm has been in the same family since 1870 and for a long time sold much of their sought-after wine in bulk, but have bottled almost all of their production since the 1960s. Their long macerations and careful winemaking in stainless steel followed by maturation in large oak casks allow the pure and spicey Verduno character to shine. Monvigliero is the star of the Verduno holdings and will age, while the tradizionale is very enjoyable in its youth. The most recent acquisition was some vines in Gramolere in Monforte, which became theirs through marriage and inheritance in 2001 and they have certainly learned how to exploit that vineyard's character beautifully.

In 2012 they had both the sites and the winemaking skills to cope with the ups and downs of the growing season. Their wines are supple and reap the benefits of their nearly 1,000 ft high vineyards. As Walter Speller wrote on jancisrobinson.com. 'Perhaps surprisingly Verduno, long considered the 'lightest' of all, but swiftly becoming everybody's darling, showed well, with wines that pair freshness with elegance and staying power.'

Verduno is easily the most overlooked commune in the Barolo area. It is small, contributing only 10% of the region's production. Much of that fruit has historically been sold to coops and bigger producers and because it is small, apart from Monvigliero there aren't many of the glamorous crus that keep Barolo in the public consciousness. But in 1838, Barolo lover King Carlo Alberto bought an estate in Verduno because the soil and the wines were so good, so perhaps we should take more notice of this little area. The soils are a real mixture of the Barolo classics, where other communes are known for one type of sand or clay or chalk, Verduno has it all. This contributes to the spicey style of the wines. /CW

Offered subject to confirmation for shipment autumn 2016