Jacqueson, Lumpp, Raquillet
Like the rest of Burgundy the Cote Chalonnaise does not lack for characters. It can be more parochial than even the rest of Burgundy and Chauvin himself would have felt at home in Mercurey and Givry. I wouldn't describe Rully as outward looking, but at least they know who the notable producers are. In Givry the Lumpps are still a well kept secret, which will stand them in good stead if they ever decide to become bank robbers. Over the last two weeks we've tried not to overemphasise the current spate of low yielding vintages. But in Rully 2011 was a hail-struck disaster. Intense and prolonged hail storms removed up to 90% of many vignerons' crop in just less than an hour. Now I don't know about you, but an income reduction on that scale is really extraordinary. Vincent Dureuil-Janthial has so little 2011 he is not offering it en primeur.
In Rully avuncular Paul at Domaine Marie et Paul Jacqueson has effected a very smooth bit of succession planning, with Marie growing effortlessly into the role of director in vineyard and cellar. The wines that she has crafted from the results of significant hail damage are really superb, with energy and drive reflecting exactly what she contributes to this beautifully run domaine. Production here was much destroyed, especially in the Chardonnay vineyards, so as a one-off Marie has bought fruit from a very good Macon producer and this Chardonnay Selection is amazing value.
Down in Givry where the hail damage was not so grave Francois and Isabelle Lumpp continue to please with their lively, crystalline wines. With some of the best value offerings in the region the Lumpps ought to be on everybody's shopping list, whether you are taking a break from too many grand crus or struggling to find a Burgundy to fit your meagre budget. Here are worthy premier crus for the masses and the masters.
A brilliant vigneron, Francois Raquillet is also a man of the soil. With him by our side we feel we really are all in it together. Les Veleys is a particular favourite of mine for its amazing terroir character, but the others in the estate have equally fine and transparent qualities. Mercurey rustic? Not here sunshine. /CW
