Jacqueson remains one of the very best domaines in the Chalonnaise, and has a huge domestic following; their wines adorn the list of many of France`s finest restaurants. Based in the village of Rully, the domaine is these days managed by third-generation sister and brother team Marie and Pierre. It`s no wonder the Jacquesons` wines are so good; their fruit come from wonderfully-sited vineyards which they only work by hand, using minimal treatments. Cellar work follows a low-intervention regime, with the judicious use of new oak.

We didn`t get to visit Jacqueson this year, what with one thing and another, but they sent samples to our en primeur tasting. In 2007 as every year, what characterises their wines as a sort of energy, or bounce; a vitality which even more illustrious producers don`t have. (CW 20/02/09)