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Red, White and Sauternes
A heterogeneous vintage with some very good wines. It was another hot year – in fact, one of the hottest ever after 2022. However, a lot of that heat was locked up in warm nights, and the daytime peaks were not as high as in 2022. The fact that there was less diurnal variation in 2023 than in 2022 may go some way to explaining why the 2023s do not enjoy quite the same sweeping sense of energy as the 2022s. There were also some very wet stretches, and mildew pressure climaxed in mid-July. Those chateaux without the resources to deploy vineyard teams at short notice suffered terrible losses. The stop-start climax to the growing season led to a big difference in the ripening between Merlot (earlier) and Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc (later), which in turn meant many estates experienced their most extended harvest period ever. The other difficulty the vintage faced was two short spells of very hot weather in August and September, which caused some dessicated fruit. Nevertheless, and even allowing for some severe sorting at winery doors, yields were generally high, and much welcomed after a series of shorter vintages. Reds have good medium-term cellar potential. Many are very attractive, in a more classic style than the exuberant 2022s. Dry whites were generally excellent, showing verve and precision. And 2023 was a fabulous vintage for Sauternes. The combination of rain and warmth saw the early and widespread development of botrytis in grapes that had high levels of acidity. Then the warm, dry weather at the end of September concentrated these grapes. They were textbook conditions for great sweet wines, and the 2023 Sauternes are riveting to taste.
Read our full 2023 Bordeaux vintage report here.
A stellar vintage, one that will be drunk and talked about for decades to come. While concentrated and powerful, 2022s are also charged with an impressive sense of tension, freshness and energy. It was also a big surprise: in an era of global warming, 2022 was the hottest year ever on record, with very low rainfall in Bordeaux, and winemakers were widely apprehensive about the effect on their wines. Yet Bordeaux 2022s show no signs of having been born in an over-hot year; instead, they are gloriously lifted and energetic. How did that come about? For one thing, the water table was well topped-up after the wet 2021. For another, though it got very hot on summer days, temperatures dropped significantly overnight (unlike the 2003 heatwave, when it stayed hot overnight and many wines felt jammy and baked). The seminal budbreak, flowering and harvest periods all took place in warm, dry weather (another mark of the most successful vintages), and the drought meant there was very little disease pressure. A truly great year for reds, which will have a long cellar life (it is also worth noting that they may close down and be relatively unapproachable in their early years). It was a less great vintage for dry Bordeaux whites, which would have preferred fresher conditions. Similarly, although Sauternes yields were generous and some were excellent, many seemed to come across as lacklustre and disjointed.
Read our full 2022 Bordeaux vintage report here.
A very different vintage from the three that preceded it, and one of the coolest vintages in the region in the previous 25 years. After a mild, wet winter, frost in early April caused a lot of damage. Damp conditions caused severe mildew problems, demanding vigilance on the part of vineyard managers. The wet conditions also meant that the vines did not experience hydric stress over the summer months, which encouraged them to focus on shooting out foliage rather than ripening fruit. The season was finally brought home by an Indian summer, for an October harvest. Harvest-time was marred by the threat of rain that (mostly) did not materialize, but which did cause some winemakers to rush the harvest and sometimes bring in slightly underripe grapes. Whereas 2020 had seen some of the smallest grapes at harvest in recent memory, the wet conditions of 2021 led to large, swollen grapes. The wines are fresh, open, and attractive, relatively light-bodied and characterised by as many red fruit as black fruit notes. They are likely to approachable and attractive from a young age, and for short to medium rather than long-term aging. Alcohol levels generally fall between 12-13%, in contrast to the 14-15.5% normal in the preceding three vintages.
Read our full 2021 Bordeaux vintage report here.
The third in a series of three great red vintages – and on balance, the best of all. A mild, wet spring was followed by a long, hot summer and a hot, dry harvest. Grapes were small and concentrated, which meant full-bodied, tannic wines and a small crop. The wines are dense and serious with a long cellar life ahead. A recent (2024) comparison of 2020s and 2019s showed that the 2019s had an attractive sense of freshness, but the 2020s had more depth and concentration. 2020 Whites were less successful, tending towards the flabby. Botrytis was late in developing in Sauternes, and there was a very narrow picking window before October rains set in. Sauternes yields were very low.
The second in a series of three great vintages. A pretty consistent growing season meant good yields and low disease pressure. Summer was long and hot, but a bit of rain around the autumn equinox helped draw out the season and extend hang time for the all-important phenolic ripeness. The vintage made perfumed, intense, serious wines which will have a long cellar life. Whites and Sauternes were also successful, characterized by their freshness and aromatics (and better than in either 2020 or 2018).
A challenging year, but one with some brilliant results in red wines – and ultimately, the first in a series of three great vintages. The cold, wet winter was initially welcomed as building up water reserves. But rain continued through the growing season, and as the weather turned hot the combination of heat and humidity brought very severe disease pressure. Huge amounts of fruit were lost to unprecedented levels of mildew, by some accounts the worst for 50 years. Diseased fruit dropped off the vine, the rain stopped, and the hot weather continued. Harvest saw a reduced yield of concentrated fruit that led to powerful, rich wines. The serious reds will have a long cellar life. Whites are less exciting, with low acidity, and should not be cellared for long. Despite the humidity in the early season, the late season was too hot and dry for noble rot to develop well, and it was not a very successful vintage for Sauternes.
A troubled vintage. The frost at the end of April was devastating for many chateaux. Yields as a whole for the region were the lowest for 25 years. The wines that were made are a mixed bag – the top names are still usually very good, though unlikely to hit the heights. This will not be a vintage for very long cellaring. However, the whites are very good, with freshness, energy and aromatics. Many Sauternes estates had lost their crop to the frost, but among those that didn’t there are also some very good wines.
A great vintage for the region, the best since 2010. The season started wet, then turned hot and dry. Summer managed the trick of combining hot days and cold nights, always a good sign for quality. Harvest saw a crop of ripe, thick-skinned berries high in both tannins and acidity. The reds are intense, structured and aromatic, and are expected to have a long cellar life; the best will be enjoyed for decades to come. The style of the vintage suited white wines less well; they are by no means bad, but not as thrilling. Sauternes are refreshing but not profound. Noble rot came late in the season and many Sauternes are more characterised by raisined flavours than by the 'marmalade, mushroom and rye bread’ character typical of botrytised wines.
An excellent vintage. Flowering was generous, summer started early and was hot and dry until August turned cool and a little damp. An early harvest followed naturally from the early start to the season. A few peripheral spots on the left bank were more affected by damp conditions, but classed growths are excellent and the right bank is uniformly good. Reds are generally very attractive, and good cellar propositions. In whites, the August rains caused problems for thin-skinned Semillon. However, the August rains also kick-started botrytis in Sauternes, and 2015 Sauternes are excellent; generous, intense and concentrated.
July and August were exceptionally cool and damp; the vintage was saved by the longest Indian summer on record, which just about managed to ripen grapes through into dry, sunny October. Wines are quite high acid. Reds are attractive, elegant and aromatic, but are not for very long-term cellaring. Whites are defined by their very high acidity; the best are glorious and intense and could cellar for unusually long. Sauternes was extremely successful, with widespread botrytis and intense, compelling wines.
Read our 2014 Bordeaux vintage blog here.
A weak vintage. The cool spring caused a slow start to the season, then rot forced many growers to pick early. Reds are high in acid, with light fruit and often dilute in character. These are very much wines to enjoy early before the fruit fades. Having written that, I have also enjoyed some very good 2013s recently (11 years on from vintage) and as ever, the rule is follow the good producers and you should end with a good wine, whatever the vintage conditions. Whites are also light. Yields were also extremely low in Sauternes, but the great names here did still release some beautiful wines which will be enjoyed long after the reds have faded from the scene.
Read our preliminary 2013 Bordeaux vintage report here.
A tricky year with awkwardly-timed rains and a hot summer. Much more of a Merlot year, since Merlot was picked in September in good conditions, whereas bad weather in October compromised the Cabernet harvest. The best Medoc wines are soft and elegant but still not for long-term cellaring. Dry whites are lively and full of energy, and may still be enjoyed. Conditions were bad in Sauternes and many top properties did not release a grand vin.
Read our preliminary 2012 Bordeaux vintage report here.
A very variable year, saved from disaster by the warm September. Wines are also variable, and to be drunk on the early side. Whites have high energy and the best may continue to cellar (they are now beyond their fresh early phase). Sauternes excelled, with opulent and high-energy wines.
Read our preliminary 2011 Bordeaux vintage report here.
A great vintage for reds, set to be one of the classics. As intense as 2009, but also fresher than that lush vintage. Reds will be enjoyed for decades to come. Whites also have weight and zest, and the very best will continue to cellar. In Sauternes, botrytis was late and irregular and the wines are more restrained than powerful.
A ripe, powerful vintage which made wines that are both lush and structured. The best will have a long cellar life. 2009 and 2010 make a pair of great but contrasting vintages (2010 is less lush, more classical, but both will be long-lived). Whites were full and fleshy, but the best also had enough acidity to carry them through. Sauternes enjoyed tremendous conditions, making rich, complex and compelling sweet wines.
Rain at the start and the end of the season and an ungenerous summer mean that the wines are for relatively early consumption. All but the best are likely to be a little on the dilute side. Whites were balanced and steely, but only the best will have survived so far. April frosts wreaked havoc in Sauternes, but what little sweet wine was made there was of excellent quality.
A very difficult year. Cool and wet conditions made it a struggle for growers to ripen fruit and mildew was rampant. Reds matured quickly and are for early consumption. Whites found the conditions more favourable and were bright and high energy. Things were tricky in Sauternes as well, but the top properties managed some great wines.
Conditions oscillated wildly this year. Very hot weather and drought were an issue in July, but August was cool and wet. Things were complicated further by on-and-off rain around harvest season. The wines nevertheless look very good in comparison with the 2007 vintage to follow. The cool August favoured dry whites, keeping wines crisp. In Sauternes, the wrong sort of rot was widespread, but the best wines are very attractive, if a little less marked by botrytis character than many vintages.
A great modern vintage. Conditions were perfect throughout the growing season. Reds are powerful, structured, and tannic, and will have a long cellar life (although they have certainly entered their drinking window). Whites were concentrated and often fat, and not to be kept longer. Sauternes also enjoyed excellent conditions with widespread botrytis leading to rich, concentrated wines.
A classically-styled vintage. Spring was mild and conditions at flowering were excellent, ultimately leading to a large crop. Summer was at first warm and dry, but heavy rains arrived in mid-August. Fortunately September was idyllic, which turned things back around. Harvest was huge and some wines can seem dilute as a result of yields not having been limited. However, the best are absolutely classic claret. Many wines will already be around their peak. Whites have acidity and freshness (in contrast to 2003). Conditions were difficult in Sauternes, and by and large they are not the most concentrated.
The year of la canicule, the heatwave. Hot and dry conditions persisted right through the growing season. Temperatures remained hot at night as well as in the daytime. Temperature records were broken and some vines shut down under the stress, which ironically resulted in some wines seeming bitter and unripe. Some grapes were raisined in the heat and acquired a port-like profile, and tannins in general are very dry. It is also the vintage that famously divided critics, with Jancis Robinson lambasting the ‘unappetising, overripe’ Pavie and Robert Parker vehemently disagreeing. While it was a difficult year to make wine in (and mistakes in the vineyard cost some vignerons dearly), among those who rose to the challenge there were undeniably some stunning wines made. In some circles it has become common to dismiss this vintage, but in fact many 2003s are showing beautifully now. Whites, however, suffered very badly from low acid levels and mostly will not have survived. Sauternes are very sweet, but as much through raisining as botrytis – many suffer from relatively low acid levels.
Best described as a ‘classic’ vintage, but not particularly strong. Flowering was interrupted by rain. Summer was cool and damp, with rot problems and heavy rains in August. Fortunately, the weather stayed hot and dry through September and October, rescuing the vintage and allowing growers to bring in a small but finally good quality harvest. The reds are attractive but not concentrated and likely to be already passing their peak in many cases. The small crop of whites was crisp and aromatic. In Sauternes, botrytis was only widespread close to the river.
A variegated, large crop, and the results depended very much on the approach of individual chateaux. Conditions oscillated throughout the growing season. Spring was cold, but a heatwave struck in May. July was wet, August was hot and dry, then heavy rains struck in September, leading to many dilute Merlots. The quality of the harvest depended on crop thinning and careful selection. Though the vintage has not had a particularly good reputation, some 2001s have proved to be balanced and attractive and have evolved well in bottle. Most should already have reached their peak. The oscillating weather patterns were ideal for the development of botrytis in Sauternes, and 2001 is widely regarded as the greatest Sauternes vintage of modern times – these wines are intense and very cellarworthy.
A great vintage for red Bordeaux. It started modestly enough, with a mild winter and a warm, wet spring (which caused a few problems with mildew); but summer was unremittingly sunny, with almost no rain at all until September showers, which were welcomed by many. Sunny weather returned for a glorious October harvest. Great red wines were made, and the top end will have a long cellar life; lesser wines are ready to be drunk. It was too hot a year for very great white wines, and the best were drunk young. After the red wine harvest, it became too rainy for the development of botrytis in Sauternes, and this is a weak vintage for sweet wines.
