Jean-Marc Boillot, Comte Armand, Drouhin, Lafarge

Woe is the Cote de Beaune, for verily hath the weather god visited all manner of calamity upon it in 2012. Though fortunately not the plague of toads, so despite being there to taste the rather lovely 2011s, most of the wailing and gnashing of teeth was concerning the disastrously low yields and empty cellars from the 2012 vintage.

There's no better way to start a week of Burgundy tasting than a chilled Pommard from the settling tank at 8:30 on a Monday morning. That is when it is made by Jean-Marc Boillot and is in the book as having matter, fine tannins, fresh, fantastic, supple red fruit. In fact at the cellar the wines showed better than the equivalent 2010s. Some of the whites were picked quite late but are pure, cleansing and unmarked by their oak. A very good set to kick off with.

As ever, the dense structures and driving energy of Comte Armand's wines continue to baffle the critics, but this suite of tannic beauties has plenty of staying power and needs more time than some in this vintage. These wines are powerful, not playful, at the moment. They're magnificent, not approachable.

On the other hand, the Domaine Joseph Drouhin 2011s are in a jolly mood. Generous fruit, supple texture and hints of mineral are to the fore here. Dangerously delicious.

Frederic and Michel Lafarge were in almost a state of shock as they described the problems with hail. Being able to move around their normally cramped cellar was no consolation for the lack of wine. Losing up to 80% of your crop is a serious loss and a big psychological blow to any farmer. Nothing wrong with the quality here - reds and whites showed very well.

View all 2011 Burgundy en primeur listed so far

Tomorrow
Puligny and St-Aubin