2022 Pavie (St-Emilion)

Wonderfully intense and concentrated, this is an impressive Pavie, muscular, intense and well constructed. It has an exuberance to the aromatics that is striking, with incense, baked damson, milk chocolate and creamy black cherry fruits, almost overwhelming until the limestone fingerprints hit in the mid palate to add tentson and salinity, even a hint of savoury freshness. Powerful, will take the full ten years to come around. 75% new oak. Buno Lacoste consultant. First year with the inclusion of Pavie Decesse and Bellevue-Mondotte, bringing it to 42ha, which is the biggest fully classified footprint, with 30ha on the plateau. Harvest 19 to October 1. 10th anniversary of classification and 25th harvest of Gerard Perse. 95 points

The 2022 Pavie is a unique wine that celebrates a number of milestones for the chateau. It marks the 20th anniversary of Pavie under the helm of Gerard and Chantal Perse, who have taken this once sleepy property to brilliant highs. Two thousand twenty-two is also the first vintage for Pavie since the incorporation of the Pavie Decesse and Bellevue Mondotte properties. From my perspective, it is always sad to see the loss of historical estates, even if they are relatively small because it is a loss of culture. In terms of the wine, it is superb. Black fruit, mocha, chocolate, licorice and spice add to an impression of virile intensity. Many recent vintages of Pavie have hinted towards a more vibrant style, but the 2022 is very strongly marked by the heat and drought of the year, the yields that are lower than typical and the harvest that started late in relative terms. In my view, the 2022 is a bit pushed, at least today. Huge tannins and a strong torrefaction oak imprint need time to soften, and that may or may not happen with elevage. 94-96 points

The 2022 Pavie was picked from 19 September to 1 October at 31hL/ha and matured in 75% new oak. The estate now comprises 42 hectares as it has absorbed Pavie-Decesse and Bellevue-Mondotte, ergo, these names are no more. This demonstrates a little over-ripeness on the nose: macerated black cherries, kirsch, cassis and a touch of fresh prune. Does that translate across onto the palate? Actually, no. It is undoubtedly decadent and rich, but it retains balance and delivers a very velvety texture, with mouth-filling tannins. Powerful and yet undeniably harmonious, it feels plush and luxuriant on the finish, with a touch of dark chocolate lingering on the aftertaste. I am intrigued to revisit this after bottling and, because of the aromatics and not the palate, I err on the side of caution, though repouring, it feels slightly fresher. 14.47% alcohol. NB It comes in a specially-designed engraved bottle without a label. 93-95 points