Aromas of sweet cherries, berry preserves and Black Forest cake, framed by a lavish application of creamy new oak, introduce the 2021 Fombrauge, a medium to full-bodied, broad and textural wine that`s supple and fleshy, with a rich core of sweet fruit and lively balancing acids. As usual, this is a generous, front-loaded, somewhat confectionary Saint-Émilion from Bernard Magrez, though it`s well made in its style. 87-89 points

The 2021 Fombrauge was picked from September 30 to October 18 and made with malo in new barrels. This is quite heady and shows some pruny aromas on the nose. Like the aromatics, I feel that the palate is pushed to compensate for the shortcomings of the growing season, and while it has presence, it is missing complexity and delineation, not to mention the freshness that is the leitmotif of the season. 86-88 points

The 2021 Fombrauge is a bright, punchy wine. In 2021, readers will find a decidedly supple Fombrauge built on a core of red-fleshed fruit and bright acids, with less overt richness and oak intensity than in the past. I very much like the vibrancy here. Bright saline notes punctuate the finish. 91-93 points

Bright plum and raspberry puree flavours, this is a little tart in its acidities, but there are serious tannins alongside, and skilful construction by estate director Anthony Defives, with everything in place to soften further over ageing, and an attractive curl of woodsmoke on the close of play. Harvest September 30 to October 18, 35% new oak. Tasted three times. 90 points