2019 Scions of Sinai Swanesang Syrah

Low-intervention Syrah - this is wild and woolly, with noticeable brettanomyces, which is a type of yeast that makes a wine smell like a farmyard. A few hours in the decanter, however, and this funk blows off to reveal a nervy wine with wild bramble fruit and a zesty character on the palate, framed by ripe, chewy tannins. Very impressive, on its own terms, and reminiscent of the Northern Rhone - Bernhard Bredell worked a vintage with Alain Graillot, and it shows in this wine. (JH 09/04/22)