2018 Taupenot-Merme Gevrey-Chambertin Bel-Air

This cool site in the forest was a bonus in 2018 and certainly explains the fresher nose, and the lively purple. Great nose here, hovers between red and black fruit, raspberries perhaps to the fore, ripe red cherry too, but more complex than a single fruit. Attractive saline touch at the finish. Very stylish. 91-94 points

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Bel Air 1er Cru offers red currant, crushed strawberry and cranberry scents on the nose, plus a creaminess that develops with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and generous, leading to a sweet, orange sorbet and marmalade-infused finish. This is a well-made wine but not imbued with the great longevity of other crus from the domaine. 90-92 points

The 2018 Bel Air from Romain Taupenot seems just a bit less ripe in personality than the la Riotte this year, and delivers a touch more precision and classical expression of its underlying terroir as a result. The nose is complex and quite classy, wafting from the glass in a mix of red and black cherries, fresh thyme, gentle meatiness, black minerality, espresso, cedar and fresh thyme in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and shows its vintage character a touch more than the nose suggests, with a bit of confiture aspect to the fruit tones, but coupled to good mineral drive, chewy tannins and a tangy, vibrant finish. I really like the freshness of the nose here, but the palate is a tad riper than I would ideally like (this is 2018 after all) and I wonder if extended bottle age will find the nose will eventually getting more of the baked fruit quality that is evident on the palate? This is a good example of the vintage, but from the riper side again, and, consequently, its balance may be most appealing over the first half of its life in bottle. Drink 2028-2065. 91 points

Discreet wood and a menthol top note surround the ripe aromas of spiced plum, red and dark currant and a whiff of humus. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the saline-inflected medium weight flavors that deliver fine length on the firm and mildly warm finale. This well-made effort will require at least some forbearance but should be well worth the wait. 90-92 points