Pale-mid gold. Very floral nose of acacia and orange blossom, with creamy apricot notes and deftly integrated baking-spice notes from the oak maturation. Sweet, rich palate entry, with apricot and orange, but the floral notes kick in and, with a little bit of pithy chew, a sense of dryness does build. Lovely poise, though a shade behind the 2017 in finesse. Still a rather lovely wine, either way! 17.5 points

The 2018 Vin de Constance was picked over 60 days, the second most prolonged picking since the maiden 1986 vintage. It was lightly pressed into 500-liter barrels for alcoholic fermentation, which can take up to six months, then matured on the gross lees in 60% new oak and acacia barrels. This vintage contains 172g/L residual sugar and 6.2g/L total acidity. It presents a vibrant, effervescent bouquet of freshly sliced grapefruit, fresh fig and citrus fruit, all penetrating, vivacious and tensile. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, impressive weight and notes of grapefruit and orange zest plus hints of stem ginger. The spiciness is accentuated toward the finish. Another outstanding Vin de Constance courtesy of winemaker Matt Day. 96 points