2017 Tenuta di Castellaro Bianco Porticello

60% Carricante, 40% Moscato from the island of Lipari on sandy volcanic soils at 350 m. Densely planted bush vines (9,000/ha). Direct pressing of grapes in pneumatic presses. No must clarification, only static settling at 16 °C. Carricante spends three months in 30-hectolitre barrels with stirring and on lees. The wine is decanted repeatedly to obtain natural clarification and then placed in bottles. The aroma is an interesting mix of sour green fruits, grapefruit and a slightly grapey character (barely) plus an attractive stony quality. Crystal clear. Beautifully dry and refreshing, the texture so dry and fine it is almost chalky. Plenty of crunchy fresh citrus and green fruit and a mouth-watering finish and really salty. Sour-fresh persistence – it would be so easy to keep drinking this, especially on a hot day – either on its own or with plain fish dishes. 17 points