The 2017 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru, a blend of two vineyards and, unlike 2015 and 2016, completely de-stemmed, has a deeper, slightly blacker nose than the Village Cru, certainly displaying more mineralité at this primordial stage. The well-defined palate is taut and linear, displaying impressive backbone considering the appellation in question. This is a great Auxey-Duresses, full of tension and vigor, offering lovely blackberry, black olive and saline notes toward the finish. Don’t overlook this gem from Comte Armand. 90-92 points

Mid cherry red. Darker and a little richer than the village Auxey but in the same family. Some spice and damson on the palate, sweet and sour. Firm, lightly chewy. Plenty of flavour. 16.5 points