2016 Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac)

The 2016 Mouton-Rothschild has an understated bouquet at first, featuring scents of blackberry, bilberry and traces of kelp and brine. Wonderful delineation here, and it builds in intensity with a few swirls of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a velvety-smooth texture and an elegant, utterly beguiling finish that flirts with perfection. Astonishing. Kudos to Philippe Dhalluin, who will be retiring from his position at the end of the year. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting. 99 points