Tasting en primeur, Mouton-Rothschild invariably seems to be opulent, rich, flambuoyant, the anitithesis of the other Rothschild First Growth, severe, austere Lafite. Mouton is one of the very few properties to be in the hands of the same family now as it was at the time of the 1855 classification (only Leoville and Langoa Barton enjoy that same historical continuity). Mouton took shape from the inheritance of Nicolas-Alexandre de Segur, who in his time had owned and created many of Bordeaux’s greatest estates. In 1720, one Joseph de Brane bought Mouton, and rechristened it Brane Mouton. (Joseph’s name lives on at Brane-Cantenac). In 1853, Nathaniel de Rothschild then acquired Brane Mouton and renamed it after himself (as one does) into Mouton-Rothschild. It was in very poor condition at the time, with the chateau crumbling and the vineyards needing replanting. This would later be adduced as a reason why it should, in fact, be given First Growth status, but in the original 1855 classification it was recorded as a Second Growth.

Cue 1922, and the arrival at the helm of 20-year-old Baron Philippe de Rothschild. Through his tireless promotion of Bordeaux he became a figurehead for Bordeaux, and his lifelong lobbying for the status of Mouton-Rothschild was finally rewarded in 1973 when the chateau was promoted to First Growth status (the only subsequent modification ever permitted to the 1855 classification). 1945 saw the inauguration of what has been a tradition ever since, ‘the artist labels’, with each vintage bearing a completely different label designed by a celebrated artist. The Baron also expanded the Mouton holdings with the purchases of Fifth Growths Armailhac and Clerc Milon, which has been managed as sibling properties ever since.

The Mouton-Rothschild vineyard is planted to 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. The very large part of the vineyards are in a single block on the Grand Plateau de Mouton, an extremely gravelly section of vineyard. Mouton-Rothschild also makes a very distinguished white wine, Aile d’Argent. Unusually for a Bordeaux Blanc, a portion of the grapes are allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation, to keep the emphasis on texture rather than varietal character. (NT 11/08/25)