2016 Fonplegade (St-Emilion)

The 2016 Fonplegade, Stephen and Denise Adams` property in Saint Emilion, has a tightly wound bouquet at first, so much so that I afforded it ten minutes to unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm grip on the entry. This is a more opaque Saint Emilion compared to others, although I like the balance and the weight/concentration towards the muscular finish. There is much more backbone here compared to the 2015 but I also discern more control and precision. This is probably a wine that is going to require a few years in bottle, but it should be worth that wait. 91-93 points

Château Fonplégade is beginning the conversion to biodynamics as of 2017 across the entire estate, after being certified organic in 2013. This is a lovely wine that sacrifices zero power but just shoots those silky, rich Merlot fruits through with a whoosh of life. I think it could go further in upping the minerality on the finish, but that should come naturally over the next few years and this is extremely successful. Stephane Derenoncourt consultant as of 2015. 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc aged in 60% new oak. 93 points