This smells like an autumn apple festival! Gloriously appley. And such purity! A wine that is not relying on lees ageing to give it depth or flavour or richness – it`s all there in this incredible fruit. It fills the mouth, a trumpet concerto of silver and gold notes, while the acidity feels like the spine-tingling vibrations of harp strings, thrumming up and down – I can feel this wine like a thread-fine electric current under my skin and through my bones. Translucent white spring florals dancing weightlessly through prismic citrus; lime, yuzu, grapefruit peel. Then, right at the end, a lick of cold salted butter, a dab of cumin and coriander spice. Outstanding. 17.5 points