2014 Jean-Paul Droin Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

(began in 40% oak). Bright, pale yellow. Ripe stone fruits and sweet oak on the nose. Wonderfully rich and pliant in the mouth, showing more volume as well as more oakiness than the Vaudésir but less inner-mouth tension and nuance. This will be a real peach bomb--but perhaps more Chardonnay and less classic Chablis than the Vaudésir. A touch phenolic on the aftertaste. Droin had old vines here until 2008 but he`s now doing a lot of replanting and the average age of the vines is now only about ten years. 90-92 points

A highly restrained and distinctly cool nose features notes of green fruit and plenty of ocean shore nuances. There is excellent richness to the solidly concentrated and intense medium weight plus flavors that are at once caressing yet austere on the long and entirely serious finale. This is first-rate with fine depth and beautiful balance. 92-94 points

The vines here are on the south-west facing side of the Grand Cru, which gives the resulting wines more breadth and power. This has more than a hint of Meursault about it, with 40% barrel-fermentation, buttery richness and good depth supported by freshness and minerality. Drink 2017-24. 95 points