yellow robe, legs visible. The nose is full of potential, aided by a mix of salty freshness and a deep-seated apricot, peach, dried fruits, hazelnut combination. The palate has an effortless elegance, is very much a rounded southern wine with pedigree foundations. The length is marked by a salty, licorice graininess, and increased freshness on the finish. Its ace card is the lingering, quiet tread, of its finish. It will probably amplify, then close, and then become more complex. From 2022-23 in that case, then 2034-36

A big step up over the classic cuvee (which isn’t always a given), the 2014 Châteauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes is 100% Roussanne from ancient vines, some of which are over 100 years in age. A deeper, richer version of the traditional cuvee, it reveals a medium-gold color to go with sensational notes of white currants, quince, brioche, honeysuckle and lemon curd. Full-bodied, beautifully concentrated and rich, yet with plenty of acidity, drink t his elegant, balanced beauty anytime over the coming 2-3 decades. 95 points