2011 Zind Humbrecht Gewurz Gueberschwihr

The Zind-Humbrecht 2011 Gewurztraminer Gueberschwihr will be the last wine so-named from this estate. As noted in my introduction to this account of recent Z-H developments, labeling with the name of the Zinds’ and Humbrechts’ ancestral villages was technically already forbidden in this vintage. But there was very little wine from this parcel adjacent to Goldert (plus two deeper-soiled rows from that cru). It had already been held out from the Calcaire blend; so compliance – with attendant assimilation into that cuvee – was put-off until vintage 2012. Thanks to admirable acid-retention for its vintage combined with non-quantifiable characteristics associated with Gueberschwihr sites, the 14 grams per liter of sugar in this 14.3% alcohol bottling feature only in a discreet supporting role. Winter pear, lychee, pink grapefruit and muskmelon are tinged with piquant toasted nuts, cooling mint, smoky black tea and incisive black pepper for a nose as well as glossy palate impression of seductive complexity and animated interactivity, not to mention sheer succulence, such as one seldom encounters in wine from this vintage and grape variety. Look for this to delight through at least 2025 – and if you want a dry-tasting Z-H 2011 Gewurztraminer, this totally transcends the quality of your only other option, namely their generic bottling. 92 points