A Vin Jaune with extra aging in barrel produced the 2011 Arbois Vin Jaune 99 Mois d`Élevage, which aged for 99 months (over eight years) when the requirement for aging is around 75 months. The wine aged in a warm and dry cellar, where the aging is faster and more oxidative. At the end of the aging period, four barrels out of six had lost the veil of yeast (flor), and the wine was more like an Amontillado, nuttier and less oxidative; the other two barrels had kept the flor and were fresher and less volatile. The combination is certainly fascinating. This is a deep golden color, nuttier and less spicy than your average Vin Jaune, with a very dry palate and a chalky mouthfeel that feels like a finer version of a young Amontillado, obviously not fortified and with higher acidity, with a volatile touch of varnish intermixed with hazelnut aromas and a certain lightness and elegance. Unusual and exceptional. Wines like this should last forever. 96 points