Comtes de Champagne 2004 is in an utterly magical spot now, poised between brown butter, coffee cake and the almost parmesan cheese and umami-like development that this classic blanc de blancs shows on cork. Plush yet zingy fruit ranges from lemon marmalade to mango and dried apple, all brightened with a touch of oyster-shell breeziness. It’s lithe, silky-smooth and layered, perfectly pitched for current drinking. Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs grands crus. Drink 2024-2040. 97 points