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South Africa
South Africa
Friends who have visited recently tell me that this small nation has dragged itself out of the 1950s. Certainly in wine world terms it is growing up fast and new areas and experimental grape varieties have almost all turned out to be considerable successes. They do need to expand the number of countries to which they sell, being dangerously reliant on us, fickle lot that we are.
- AshbourneAnthony Hamilton Russell founded Ashbourne in 1996 on a site adjacent to his eponymous estate because he believes that althogh his Pinots and Chardonnays are brilliant expressions of the Hemel-en-Aarde valley, they are far from the limit of what can be achieved there. In particular he wanted to have South Africa`s own Pinotage grape able to achieve its potential in shale soils that are mostly clay and contain many fossils. Farming here is low intervention and that allows them to use naturally occurring yeasts.
- Hamilton Russell Vineyards
Change seems to be Anthony Hamilton Russell’s watchword. Since taking over from his father and company founder Tim in the early nineties he has changed the vines, the method of farming, and in conjunction with some stellar winemakers – the quality. Employees become so besotted with the valley and the opportunities that they leave to set up their own wineries, including Newton Johnson, Hannes Storm and Ataraxia; all seeded by Hamilton Russell. Current winemaker is Emul Ross, who used to work with another old friend of Uncorked - Gottfried Mocke, late of Chamonix.
- Kanonkop
Kanonkop may be famous for its Pinotage but in my opinion it is the Bordeaux blends and varietals that are the jewels in the crown. The vineyards are right to the top of the Kanonkop hill and their altitude, exposure to sun and wind, and their climate are all superb.
- Klein Constantia
In winemaking terms we think of South Africa as part of the New World, but Klein Constantia in the Western Cape has a longer history than most `Old` World estates. By the 19th century the sweet wine of Constance had become mythical; Napoleon drank it in exile on St. Helena, Jane Austen recommended it for `its healing powers on a disappointed heart`, and Baudelaire compared it to his lover`s lips.
- Lismore Estate
Former television executive Samantha O’Keefe left her native California and settled in South Africa in the early 2000s. Arriving with her two small children, she went ahead and bought a mountain. Her land is located in Greyton and she planted her first vines in 2004. Her choice of site seemed bizarre to many and she really is out on a limb when compared to the major wine producing areas in the country. However, her steadfastness and determination saw her small estate grow into something truly remarkable and she is now recognised as a pioneer for a new and exciting appellation.
- Meerlust
In winemaking terms, South Africa gets bracketed with the New World, but they`ve been making wine here for longer than in many places in the so-called ‘Old World’. Meerlust Estate has been in the hands of the Myburgh family since 1756, and they`ve been making wine pretty much since then. While they used to make only single varietal wines, a ‘rubicon’ was crossed in 1980 with the first vintage of their Bordeaux blend, almost a first for South Africa. It hadn`t come from nowhere.
- RustenbergRustenberg has been a must-visit on any trip to the Cape since the late seventeenth century, yet while they hold their tradition and heritage close to their heart, they aren`t afraid to exploit the best of the modern in viticulture and cellar practice. They run their own nursery to avoid the common problem of commercial nursery`s selling you the wrong vines; everything is hand-harvested; and over the years site selection for each vine variety has been rigorously researched and fine-tuned.
- The Sadie Family WinesEben Sadie spent the first early part of his career bouncing between hemispheres, working with iconoclastic, terroir-driven winemakers in an era when Wine Advocate and the Parker 100-point score was the ultimate prize. He returned to South Africa in 1997 with the intention to stay, and settled in the Swartland, where he had previously worked with Spice Route.
His first vintage of his red blend, Columella, in 1999, was followed a few years later by the 2002 Palladius white. These two wines cemented his reputation for world-class wines made with sensitivity and precision.